A Visit to Herm Island

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Disclaimer: This post was produced in collaboration with herm.com who kindly paid for my ferry ticket.

A visit to Herm Island is almost like having a history lessons, it’s been home to monks, Nazi soldiers, and even a famous writer. It’s beauty and charm attracts people all year round. It’s an island with ways and traditions which make it a fascinating place to visit, most of which have been in place for several generations, having been established by the Wood family who ran the Island from 1949, continuing through to the current custodians.

Apart from the current leaseholder, nobody else is allowed to live on Herm except those who work there or have direct family who do. Sixty-two people are in residence all year round, including a small number of children aged from five to 11 who attend the one-room school. Older children attend boarding schools over the water in Guernsey during the week.

Herm Island has enjoyed a colourful history. The island today is quite different to eras when the public had no access. The island has been home to Neolithic man, monks, quarrymen, farmers, writers, artists and wealthy entrepreneurs.

Up to the 16th Century

The first people to set foot on Herm were hunter-gatherers who came in search of food. Later on, during medieval times the position and solitude of Herm Island held great spiritual appeal for those seeking the monastic life.

Missionary monks visited in the sixth century, including followers of St Tugual who was a Celtic missionary. A chapel was dedicated to his memory. The church has been restored and is still used today.

Until 1569 all of the Channel Islands were run by the Duchy of Normandy. Herm was then handed over to Norman monasteries where Monks lived for several decades.

To the late 1800s

Between 1570 and 1737 the island was full of pheasants, partridges, swans and rabbits so that wealthy gentlemen could sail over from Guernsey to hunt, shoot and fish, it was then leased as farmland, and an inn established in 1810. Herm Island then changed dramatically: it became a centre for granite quarrying which was ideal for road and bridge building. To cater for the needs of the quarrymen accommodation, a forge, brewery, bakery and a prison were built.

To the Second World War

In 1889 Prince Blucher von Wahlstatt bought the island lease. During his 26 year stay, he tidied up the island, transforming it into his private kingdom. He lived on the island with his family, but were forced to leave at the outbreak of the First World War.

Everything changed due to the start of the Second World War. The Channel Islands, including Herm, were occupied by German troops. On 9 May 1945, the Channel Islands were liberated.

Soon after the war, it was agreed that Herm Island should be handed over to a tenant who would care for the island. From 1946 to 1949 the island was occupied by Mr A G Jeffries. In 1949 Peter and Jenny Wood took over the lease of Herm Island, and it has remained in their family but was managed by Adrian and Pennie Heyworth, the daughter and son-in-law of Peter and Jenny until September 2008.

The lease of Herm Island is now owned by John and Julia Singer, Island Managers for the Starboard Settlement.

Paying A Visit to Herm Island

Herm Island is open all year round, with most guests visiting during spring, summer and early autumn although there are visitors who regularly come to stay every Christmas and New Year.

If you are an expert bird watcher or are just beginning, Herm Island will provide you with a variety of bird watching at all seasons of the year. Because Herm Island is an island, you will find a complete contrast to your local bird watching site. Almost 100 different species of bird are regularly seen on Herm Island.

Getting to Herm Island

Located 3 miles from Guernsey in the Channel Islands, the only way to arrive in Herm Island is by boat – either aboard a private yacht or on the passenger ferry. The Travel Trident sails daily from the St Peter Port Harbour and takes just twenty minutes. If you are traveling from further afield first you will need to get to Guernsey which you can do so by air or by sea.

Where To Stay

If you choose to stay on Herm Island there is a variety of accommodation designed to suit all tastes. You could opt to stay at The White House Hotel, the only hotel on the island, where there are no telephones, televisions or clocks. Enjoy well-furnished rooms, an excellent restaurant and incredible sea views.

The holiday cottages allow you to sample island life while still giving you the freedom to come and go as you please.

Alternatively you can camp on Herm Island in one of their modern, well-equipped family size tents or choose to pitch your own tent.

Where To Eat

Feeling hungry during your stay? Then you’ll find that during a visit to Herm Island the restaurants and cafés have something to suit everyone, where it’s grabbing a simple sandwich (and a delicious ice cream) from one of the beach cafes or a more formal dining experience in a restaurant. The Mermaid Tavern offers great fresh pub food, The White House Hotel offers a fantastic menu in its Conservatory Restaurant, then lastly The Ship Inn next to the Hotel offers informal dining for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

What To Do

If you love a more active getaway then you can choose between hiring a kayak or SUP, clay-pigeon shooting and even archery. However, I would recommend heading to one of Herm Island’s Gift Shops, grabbing a map and exploring the island and its history. Explore off the beaten track and you will find a private spot, even in the height of summer.

The real draw for a visit to Herm Island is the coastline for you to explore and enjoy in a number of different ways. If you enjoy spending time relaxing and playing on the beautiful beaches then you’re spoilt for choice.

Shell Beach

This stretch of golden sand is aptly named, if you look closely, you will see millions of tiny shells. This particular beach runs for almost three-quarters of a mile from a rocky point all the way to the most northerly tip of the island at Alderney Point. Shell Beach boasts a well-stocked café supplying anything from ice creams and drinks to suntan lotion and inflatable toys.

Belvoir Bay

Another very popular beach, this small bay is a real sun trap even on a windy day. To reach Belvoir Bay, walk along the cliff path from Rosaire, or take a steeper shortcut over the centre of the island. The view of turquoise seas and golden sand is well worth the effort. More refreshments and beach essentials are available at the café.

Fisherman’s Beach

Its close proximity to The White House Hotel, The Mermaid Tavern and the gift shops means that it’s perfect for those who are only making a quick visit to the island.

Hotel Beach

This beach is the closest to The White House Hotel. It perfectly provides some quiet secluded spots and its harbour wall can act as a natural windbreak.

Bears’ Beach

This is a delightful beach for sun worshipers seeking a spot of seclusion, with its natural rocky windbreak to the north, it affords uninterrupted views of Guernsey.

Oyster Point

For seclusion and tranquillity, nothing can beat this part of the coastline. There is a chance that you could spend an entire day here with little else but the sound of seagulls for company.

At 1.5 miles long and less than half a mile wide, Herm has a strong case for being deemed the prettiest of all the British crown dependencies. There are no cars, no cyclists, no crowds and definitely no stress. It is the perfect place to stay for a truly relaxing holiday. This is a destination where you can enjoy beautiful, unspoilt beaches, explore the natural coastline and take in spectacular views of neighbouring islands.

I was blown away by the beauty of this island. I’m not a beach-lover or a sun-worshipper but I would happily return to Herm to continue exploring its coastal paths and hidden treasures. A one-man prison, a graveyard with only two graves, an obelisk are just some of the unusual features waiting to be found.